A Primer to Driving in Sicily: Driving in a Small Town

Would you drive here?

Driving in Sicily's small towns and villages requires a new skill unto itself.  Would you want to drive up this road?   I wouldn't.  But people do and I have done out of necessity.  In fact, the street on which our new house lives is about this wide and the road leading to our street has an incline similar to this one.  I think I have mentioned already that turning onto our street means leaving half my tires on the road.  

So, let's begin.  I have mentioned that a GPS is essential for driving in Sicily.  That is absolutely true - to a point.  Once you are in the small town with twisty narrow roads that are often one way (not that a one way street concerns many Sicilians!) your location finding needs to become creative.  This is where a map comes in handy.  I can't speak for other small towns, but I know that Cianciana has street maps that they hand out generously!  Where do you find them?  From the realtor (My House), from the library, the museum, and most people who rent out apartments to sun seeking foreigners.  You could also print out a map from Google Earth or Google Maps before you leave.  Driving in a small Sicilian town you will find that this is where those meditation classes I mentioned in the first driving post will come in handy.  You need to be prepared for the following:

1. You will make mistakes.
2. People will honk at you and make rude gestures.
3. You will get lost. 
4. Parking is almost impossible to find unless you come across a piazza.
5. There will be swearing.
6. In a small town, three stopped cars makes a traffic jam and there will be honking.
7. Drivers in front of you will stop at random to discuss the latest football game, the weather, their families, or whatever with someone they see walking on the road.
8. Your car will probably get scratched or, like me, you will knock off your side mirror - maybe both.
9. You will turn a corner and see something amazing that you never expected.

If you know and fully accept that these things will happen, it will make your small town driving a more enjoyable adventure.

My Personal Examples of Some of the List Above

Number One and Five

My mistake?  I drove over a nail and the tire exploded.  There was swearing.

Number Two and Six and Seven

This is in Cianciana - I heard so much honking that I went out onto our balcony
and snapped a shot of the three car traffic jam!  The driver in the white van was chatting with all the kids as they walked by.  In Cianciana, everyone knows everyone.

Number Three

This is the Turkish Steps or Scala dei Turchi.  You will find this in any tourist book of Sicily.  The cliffs are spectacular.  On our trip to Sicily in 2010 we tried to find this beach several times.  Do you think we could find it?  Finally, in 2012 we managed to make it to Scala dei Turchi.  BTW, the man in the foreground wearing the knee length shorts is my husband, Nick.  Those shorts scream "STRANIERO - FOREIGNER!!!"  The Speedo is ubiquitous in Sicily.  But that is another post.

Number Four

This was taken in Piazza Armerina which really doesn't qualify as a small town.  The parking in this piazza wasn't free but 100 metres from here was the piazza in front of the duomo - cathedral where we parked because the parking was free.

Number Nine

This was my amazing and really unexpect thing: We visited Capizzi, the hometown of my husband's family.  We were there on a Sunday and everywhere we went we seemed to run into this procession.  The patron saint of Capizzi is Saint Giacomo.  They were solemnly and respectfully carrying their relic of Saint Giacomo from church to church.  I must admit that I was quite startled to hear that the relic was Saint Giacomo's finger which was encased in a golden hand on a long pole.  If you look closely at the picture, you will see the man behind the priest (in red) is carrying the pole and the golden hand is above him.

This man was walking his horse down the middle of the road as we approached Polizzi Generosa.

If you arrive in town on market day park the car and count yourself lucky.  You will find your way blocked by trucks laden with fruit and vegies, refrigerated stands with meats and cheeses that I had never seen in Canada (goat meat???), tables of ten euro shoes that the venders swear were made in Italy, tables of clothing, household goods, purses, sketchy-looking electronics, jewelry, and just about anything else you can think of.

Sometimes the market is just on the back of a truck driving up and down the streets and stopping as soon as there is a whiff of a customer.  BTW, I am the rather large lady with the appalling cargo shorts. (Why oh why did I ever think those were a good idea???)

My Journey to Italy Part 2

A beautiful spring day welcomed us to London.

England at last!  We were all grabbing for our carry-on bags and jostling to be close to the front of the line to be first to be down the stairs onto the tarmac.  It was a beautiful spring day - cool and breezy but with a bright blue sky and little clouds drifting across.  It looked perfect.  And it was perfect, our time there - the brilliant moving lights of Piccadilly Circus at night, 

the quiet solemnity of Westminster Abbey, 

the peace of Salisbury Cathedral, the silent power of Stonehenge, 

Stonehenge - in 1974 you could actually walk in amongst the stones.

the bustling shops of Greenwich market, and the grandeur of the changing of the guards outside Buckingham Palace.  

Changing of the guard outside Buckingham Palace.

It was everything that I had read about - all the amazing pictures I had found in our local library matched with what was before me as I walked the streets of London, and the country lanes of Salisbury.  I was perfectly satisfied and felt that nothing that was yet to come could match anything I had already seen.


We were ushered onto a plane - this time Alitalia - and we settled in to comfortable seats as, much to our amazement, the stewardesses offered us wine!  The adults supervising us quickly put a stop to this, much to the amusement of the flight crew.  This was the first crack in the doorway that would soon swing open and lead us to the magic that we discovered in Italy. 


A short two hours later we were landing in Venice's Marco Polo Airport.  It was a short bus ride to Venice itself and onto a boat to take us along the Grand Canal to the Piazza di San Marco.  

Venice, out into open water.

As we climbed into the canal-taxi, we giggled and poked each other, pretending to fall overboard, holding our noses at the unpleasant odour rising up from the canal.  The sun was warm on our shoulders but not so hot that we could feel it burning our skin.  As soon as we were settled, the taxi pulled away from the dock.  

View from the water taxi as we made our way to the Piazza di San Marco.

As we rocked slowly along the canal, the guide spoke to us about the houses rising out of the water - they appeared ancient to our New World eyes.  Arab decor, lacy and exotic, rimmed the edges of the balconies.  The windows were ornately decorated too, hiding homes of the rich and of the famous behind the curtains.  We passed the home of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton - three elegant stories none of which suggested that the inhabitants were Hollywood royalty.  

The home of the late Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. 

Between the houses there were intermittent smaller canals lying in shadow.  Peeking out from the edges of these canals were small powerboats and gondolas. 

 Planters filled with flowers hung from upper windows and small arched bridges framed the lower levels.  In the Grand Canal, we passed under the Rialto Bridge and we could hear vendors calling out their wares from the shops above us.  

A corner of the Rialto Bridge.

I had never seen, nor imagined, a place as magical as this.  


Eventually we pulled out of the Grand Canal and into open water.  The taxi docked shortly and we found ourselves disembarking in front of stunning hotels - I felt sure that if I looked hard enough I would see Roger Moore dressed as James Bond come walking through the ornate doors.  Beautiful Italian women dressed in clothes I had only seen in magazines walked on the arms of handsome Italian men - dark haired and romantic, towards the Piazza di San Marco where they, like so many Italians do all over the country, would walk about to see and be seen.  We all stood, mouths open, awed by the splendour of medieval meeting modern.  We followed the pedestrian flow into the piazza.  Almost immediately we were surrounded by pigeons, hoping for a scattering of crumbs from the new tourists entering the square.  Once more, we were awed by the size and grandeur of the piazza.  At one end was the duomo, the cathedral, towering above the square, quietly but inexorably dominating the participants in the life of the piazza.  On the other sides, the piazza was surrounded by tables with umbrellas hiding lovers whispering nothings, shading giggling school girls, and protecting the pale skinned tourists from the sun as they drank their espresso or ate their gelato.  As with the rest Venice, this place was bewitching.  People swirled around us, dance-like, to enter the Basilica in order to admire the art or to pray to Saint Mark.  They search for an empty table at a cafe, or they left the piazza to enter the dark, mysterious alleys that took them into the heart of Venice.

An entrance into Saint Mark's Basilica.

Our guide motioned us around the piazza, pointing out architectural features and giving us brief history lessons on Venice and its importance to the beginnings of the trade routes to Asia.  We listened distractedly, our attention taken by the hustle of the square.  Finally, our guide gave us the freedom that we had hoped for.  "If you get lost, just ask someone for the Piazza di San Marco.  Most Venetians are kind, they will point you in the right direction."


In small groups we wandered off into the narrow alleys, wanting to explore this city, so foreign to anything we had yet experienced.  Shop windows displaying long-nosed, colourful masks and beautiful glasswork were everywhere we looked.  The smell of freshly baked pizza wafted into the streets, covering the unpleasant odours from the canals.  We wandered, crossing bridges, turning down narrower and narrower alleys.  Finally, we realized we were lost and it was nearly the time we were to meet back in the piazza.  Giggling, we approached a group of darkly handsome young men - Italian gods to this little group of teenage Canadian girls.  Clutching each other, we prodded one another forward until one of our group stepped out and boldly said "Piazza di San Marco?"  The men, together, gave us directions in fast and, to us, unintelligible Italian.  Realizing that their directions were useless to us, they laughed and gestured for us to follow them and they led us back to the piazza, filled with Italian life.

The dome on Saint Mark's Basilica.

Sadly, that was the end of my first visit to Venice.  Once we arrived back in the piazza, we were put back in the water taxi and taken out to a magnificent white cruise ship - the SS Nevasa - that would be our home for the next 2 1/2 weeks.

A cultural aside: Italy is filled with piazzas, from tiny open spaces ringed with tall stone houses in Sicilian mountain towns to wide, impressive public squares surrounded by cafes and bars where Italians and tourists sit doing nothing but watching people and discussing the state of the world.  Since this first Italian exploration, I have visited many piazze and have come to realize how vitally important they are to the life of the Italian people.  It is here that they make daily connections with their neighbours, that they share gossip and find support from each other and celebrate the wonderful place they call home.  In my travels, apart from Piazza di San Marco, one other piazza in particular stands out for me.  In 2010, we visited a small town in Sicily, Polizzi Generosa.  To get to this town we had to follow a winding mountain road until we reached this tiny community hanging off the side of the mountain, looking over the Sicilian countryside.  Our first night there, along with many of the residents of Polizzi Generosa, we walked out to the piazza in the evening.  

Nick and I on the piazza in Polizzi Generosa.

What met us was the most spectacular view we had yet seen.  The sun was setting and we were awed by the amazing sight.  The piazza quite literally hung over the edge of the cliff.  When we stood at the precipice it was as if we were standing in the sky, watching the sun go down.  I will never forget that moment.  

The sunset over Polizzi Generosa.

Once the sun had set, and the twinkling lights were turned on around the piazza, we were befriended by a local man, both deaf and mute, and so our language came in gestures and pictures drawn on scraps of paper.  He walked us back to our hotel, shook our hands and kissed us on both cheeks.  We never knew his name, and he didn't know ours but it didn't matter.  For that short moment, we knew each other.

Our new, if brief, friendship.