La Bella Figura - Part 2

“[La bella figura] basically means that you don't want others, be they strangers or friends, to have a negative impression of you. .... they must always think you are the tops.  This means bringing for example, cookies to someone's house if you're invited over for just coffee...that's putting on a bella figura.  It means kids always saying please, thank you and not being wild when visiting others ... this is bella figura.   It means helping or offering your help to neighbours even if they don't ask for it...that is bella figura.” Expats in Italy

Rosaria, our friendly landlady, insisted on changing clothes and putting on a touch of make-up
before she  had her picture taken.

I believe that anyone who lives in or visits Italy experiences la bella figura in one way or another.  Perhaps the only exception to this might be those who, after landing in Rome or Milan take a taxi to the most North American or British style hotel their travel agent could book for them, eat only in the hotel restaurant, and take guided tours of the most famous sites.  Then, they cab it back to the airport, fly home and tell their friends about their wonderful or not-so-wonderful holiday in Italy.  Yet even these people may have been touched by la bella figura (even though they haven’t realized it) in their dealings with the hotel staff, the taxi driver, and the tour guide.  It’s a shame that these tourists don’t understand the concept of la bella figura as they most certainly make “la brutta figura” – a bad impression.  These are the tourists that you can hear saying things like “This pizza/coffee/pasta isn’t like what we get back home in Chicago/Toronto/Manchester!”  How sad to come to Italy and not make the most of the experience.  Once, when we were visiting Roma, outside the Colosseum, we saw a group of Americans who were being guarded on all sides by what were obviously members of the secret service.  I have no idea who these people were but I thought to myself what a restricted view of Italy these people will go home with!

“I definately see most people doing their best to be kind, thoughtful, gracious, polite, and helpful.” Expats in Italy

My husband, my daughter and I have all been grateful recipients of la bella figura.  In 2010 we visited Nick’s family in Sicily.  

Capizzi

We drove a windy road up to Capizzi and went into the town hall where Mimma, Nick’s cousin, worked as the town clerk.  This started a wonderful, whirlwind day.  We were introduced to the mayor of Capizzi, treated to a delicious seven course meal with family members that Nick had never heard of before.  We were toured around the town and visited all the churches, saw the home that Nick’s dad had grown up in, and were invited into the homes of distant relatives.  He was surrounded by people who came to tell him that they remembered his father or his mother from 55 years before.  And every person treated us with kindness, delight, and joy.  We felt completely and totally welcomed.

Mimma and Jackie at lunch

At the end of a huge lunch

Nick's father grew up here.

Friendly neighbours who came out to see the "Capizi boy from Canada".

Nick with two of his elderly cousins.

Nick and I are active members of Couchsurfing.  In 2010, we couchsurfed our way from Sicilia to Milano.  We were welcomed into so many homes and treated to so many wonderful experiences.  In Agrigento, Marilena and her mother, Giovanna, took us to the family farm where we picked fruit fresh off the trees.  

Giovanna picking fresh vegies.

Marilena and her mother Giovanna

In Catania, Nello toured us through museums and took us to a jazz concert and later we picked bananas in his garden with his father. 

Nello and his dad picking bananas.

In Puglia, Elena and Paolo put us up in a beautiful trullo and included us in their community and celebrations for their son’s birthday.  Luca, who hosted us in his house in Padua, gave us one of our best days in Italy, touring us through all the wonderful backstreets of Venice.  And Matteo in Bergamo treated us to an evening of laughter with his friends in a pub way out in the middle of farmers’ fields.  Every host we had went out of their way to make our stay with them memorable.  Each, in his or her own way, was the embodiment of la bella figura.

Cianciana

Last summer, in Cianciana, we witnessed la bella figura every day.  In the evenings, people dressed their best and did passeggiata (a slow stroll) up and down the main street.  Bars placed tables and chairs on the sidewalks and they were filled all night as the visitors and Ciancianese alike watched the unofficial parade fill the street.  More than once we were invited for coffee or a drink because in Cianciana they say, “the visitor never pays”.  

Gaetano invited us for a coffee at the Antico Bar Trieste as we watched the passeggiata.

A youth group entertains the people strolling along the street.

Over and over the people in Cianciana treated us with grace, kindness and helpfulness.  When we told our friends and coworkers in Canada that we were planning on buying and renovating a house in Sicily, so many of them told us we were crazy and that we would be cheated out of our hard earned money.  Instead we found a realtor and a contractor who were honest and transparent in all their dealings with us. 

Please don’t misunderstand me.  There are things that that are annoying and frustrating in Sicily too.  When Nick and I made our bank account we had to sign a stack of papers at least an inch thick.  As I mentioned in several earlier posts, driving can be hair-raising.  Gas is ridiculously expensive.  People crowd together on beaches and yell back and forth.  But for every difficult moment there are ten joyful ones. 

Researching and writing this post has been a real learning experience.  Nick and I have been such grateful recipients of la bella figura that we both  want to make sure we make la bella figura ourselves.

La Bella Figura : Part 1

“Being Italian is a full time job.  We never forget who we are.” Severgnini from La Bella Figura.

Recently Nick and I watched a Canadian news special about the sinking of the Costa Concordia and particularly about the actions of the captain Francesco Schettino.  The Canadian reporter was very critical of Schettino when he arrived at the first of the hearings.  Why was he critical?  Because he was wearing an exquisitely tailored suit, silk shirt, expensive leather shoes, and he had not a single hair out of place.  He was tanned and smiling for the cameras.  I commented on this to my husband.

“Well, of course he dressed like that.  It’s la bella figura!”  Nick nodded his agreement.  A strict translation of la bella figura is “a beautiful figure”.  A more useful translation would be “to make a good impression”.  While we in North America understand the concept of making a good impression, and many people would consider it important, it is not embedded in our cultures here the way it is in Italy.  The Canadian news reporter assumed (as many Canadians would) that his appearance and behaviour indicated a lack of humility or feeling of responsibility for his actions.  This is completely wrong.  His appearance and way of entering the courtroom would be expected in Italy.  It would be completely shameful if he hadn’t tried to make that impression.  Now, don’t get me wrong, I think his behaviour as captain was appalling and he should face a trial, but these comments by the Canadian journalist show a real lack of understanding of the Italian culture and psyche. 

Just by happenstance, a few days later I turned on my favourite Italian cooking show that is broadcast in Canada.  The Two Greedy Italians are two rather plump, very funny Italian gentlemen who travel the length of Italy to find some of the best traditional Italian food and to explain how it is related to Italian culture.  In this particular episode they visited a nonna living in Tuscany who talked about how la bella figura is part and parcel of how she gathers her food and how she feeds her family.  Hmmm.  Perhaps there was more to this bella figura thing than I realized. 

To make myself better informed on this topic, I started by reading Beppe Severgnini’s book La Bella Figura:  A Field Guide to the Italian Mind.  I glimpsed my first explanation of the need to make a good impression in his words about the airport in Milano: “Malpensa encapsulates the nation.  Only a naïve observer would mistake this for confusion.  Actually it’s performance art.  It is improvisation by gifted actors.  No one believes for one second that he or she is an extra.  Everyone’s a star no matter how modest the part.”  Hmmm.  Surely there is more to la bella figura than this seemingly egocentric view of life?  I began to ask my Italian friends and expats who live in Italy this question: What does la bella figura mean in your life?  I got these answers:

·      “I'm an American who has been living in Milan for about 18 months. I first interpreted the idea of bella figura to mean that people dressed their best to make a good impression on others, and I further interpreted it to mean that I (and my kids) would be judged harshly for not keeping up with trends or designer labels. I have no interest in those things, and I can't afford them in any case, so I figured I was doomed to disdain. Now I interpret it more generously. I take it to mean that each of us has a duty to be our best selves. For some that will lend itself to ostentatious shows of fabulousness, but for most of us people (Italian and otherwise) it will just mean "putting in the effort" to make the best of what you have, be it in terms of how you dress, how you cook and eat, or the energy and kindness you extend to others.” Expats in Italy

·      “…back in '70s my Uncle Louis, who traveled to Italy often, pointed out that in Italy and only in Italy, you can spend 10 thousand lire at a cheap trattoria or 40 thousand lire at an expensive restaurant and you get the same meal. From the poorest to the richest, they want to make a good impression with their food.” Expats in Italy

·      In Italy, when we say "bella figura" we are likely to refer to our behavior, before our looks. "Fai una bella figura" when you have just done something honest, useful and nice to the others. Or especially, if you are polite.  Banally, years ago we went to a restaurant in Rome, and the final bill was missing desserts and coffees. We could have shut up about it, but we felt it was fair to call the waiter and tell him. He was very surprised and admitted that such a thing would rarely happen. So, that moment we were making a veeery bella figura of ourselves and (to his eyes) of people from north Italy.  Bella figura is also showing you have a beautiful house, you can set a table in an elegant way, or cook in an extraordinary way.”  Anita and Irene Bozzetto

·      “…in my opinion the bella figura comes a lot into play also because we are a small town [Cianciana] and we all know each other and so a lot of people try to impress each other. I come from a big city so I don't have that kind of mentality. Plus it's a very outdoor lifestyle and we are strutting our stuff all over town and so they like to make a big show. Of course, we are individualistic and like to make a good impression, but in my opinion this is a good thing (individualism instead of collective) because it values the person - see the way the sick, elderly etc are treated around town.  Anyway, style is in the Italian DNA - fashion, art, cars, etc . God gives different people and nations different gifts so that they get together and make the world a better place for all.” Joe Guida

·      “I not only grew up in an Italian family but spent almost all the summers of my youth in Italy. I embrace the ideal of la bella figura, and although some people may interpret this term negatively, I see it as an aspiration of being your best self. I take pride in my appearance, for me, not for anyone else. I don't think you have to spend lots of, or any, money to embrace this notion.  I strive to always be gracious to others and bring hostess gifts, etc.” Expats in Italy

A Primer to Driving in Sicily: The Wrap-Up

This is my final post about driving in Sicily.  I thought I would end with some of the pictures about driving that I hadn't yet posted.

But before you go on to the pictures, I have to tell you about the blog post Blindness and Memory Loss While Driving on A Canadian in Italy by Eloradaphne.  This is the quintessential 'driving in Italy' story.  I encourage you to read it.

And on to the pictures... 
This is the road to Capizzi, the tiny mountain village from which my husband's family originated.  If you could drive as the crow flies it would take about 20-30 minutes from the coast.  However, this road is so full of switchbacks that it takes 2 hours.

We stayed with a friend in Piazza Armerina in 2010.  Every evening this car was parked in this spot.  We never got to see the right side of the car so I can't say if it is scratched up or not - I suspect it must be.  I was just so impressed that someone could park that close to a wall!

I loved this little truck.  We saw it in Cefalu' on one of the many narrow back streets.  I don't know how the vegie vendor could drive without losing the vegetables off the top!

I wrote earlier about the Ferrari night in Cianciana.  This is such a great example of la bella figura or putting on the best face.  There were about 20 or so Ferraris in Cianciana that night, all from Ribera, a nearby town.  In the small town in which we live in Canada, I am sure there aren't 20 Ferraris, 10 Ferraris - in fact I have never seen even one Ferrari!  The unemployment rate in British Columbia is about 7% whereas the unemployment rate in Sicily is 25%, the highest in Italy.  Logically, you would think that British Columbians would have more disposable income to buy race cars than Sicilians.  I would guess that la bella figura plays a good part in the number of expensive sport cars that can be found in Ribera.

I included these two pictures of the main street in Cianciana.  This is Salita Regina Elena.  The top picture is in the mid-afternoon when most people are at home resting, sleeping, or watching television.  The second picture is at night when people come out - at least in the summertime - and do the passagiata, visiting with all their friends and neighbours, sharing wine, beer, coffee, or a meal.  Cianciana is a lively place to be in the summer at night!

This is Sant'Angelo Muxaro - an even smaller town than Cianciana.  As you can see, Sant'Angelo Muxaro hangs on the edge of a cliff.  Amazing that the buildings can cling there without sliding down the side of the cliff!  Believe it or not, there is a road going up that cliff to the lovely, friendly little town at the top.

 One thing I didn't mention when I talked about the autostrada is the off ramps.  In North America, off and on ramps are usually long, giving drivers lots of room to merge.  In Italy on the autostrade, off and on ramps are very short.  To compensate for that, the name of the off ramp and large arrows are painted onto the highway so you are given good warning ahead of time.  That is, if you realize what the names and arrows are telling you.

Sicily is full of mountains which means lots and lots of tunnels.  I like the tunnels for a couple of reasons: one, they are interesting and plentiful, and two, they are good places to pass slower cars in front of you.  The first time you drive through these tunnels you will understand the reason for the law insisting drivers turn on their lights on the autostrade.